With a grand old world setting and a whiff of aroma in the air, ace designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee showcased his 'opium' inspired collection on the opening night of the PCJ Delhi Couture Week.
Details such as empty glass bottles against ornate mirror frames added to the old world charm of the designer's 1920's inspired collection.
"It took me around two and half months to do the collection. I am very inspired by the 1920's era. I did not require to do any real research. It was easy as in my mind I belong to that period. Hence I decided to show it through this collection," Sabyasachi said.
A variety of fabrics were chosen for this collection - khadi from West Bengal, lots of tulle from France, velvet, lace etc.
A lot of hand embroidery, applique, zardosi, tilla work, old fashioned crewel embroidery were seen on the garments.
"I wanted to keep the whole collection very evening and glamorous," the designer said.
The silhouettes ranged from bandhgalas, short tops, garaaras, flapper jackets, flapper coats, duster coats, Mughal coats, to kurtas, lehengas and sarees.
"The collection had a variety of silhouettes besides my favourite sarees. I was particularly fond of my men's wear because I thought it was very chic and nice," Sabyasachi said.
The designer also used vintage jewellery to complete the look.
"I used vintage jewellery from a jeweller in Hyderabad. There was personal pieces, old antique pieces, there was a lot of collectibles from the 1800-1900. It was a collection put together by them. I just wanted to make the collection very lavish and personal," he said.
Sabyasachi also used a lot of bling this time in the form of sequin work in most of his collection. Shimmery sarees, dupattas in sombre tones of white, cream, peach had a kick of shimmer.
"It was a very old fashioned sequined works called tara work, which is handcut gold, silver and copper sequins. It is not really sequins as we know as of now. 'Ari Tari' work is one of the oldest form of embroidery in the country. All kashmiri shawls used to be done with 'Aari Tari' at one point of time so I wanted to revive that tradition," the designer said.
When asked about colour trends, Sabyasachi said, "We will see a lot of monotones, liquid golds. Contrast is moving out."